52 ITEMS IN 52 WEEKS: WEEK ELEVEN

Week Eleven

Even though it is still hot here in Brisbane, I thought it was time to start working on the boys winter wardrobes.

I had a big cutting out session one night, two pairs of pants each and two pairs of flannel pjs each. Jarvis again choose which fabric for each and every pair. He is certainly developing strong notions of what he does and does not like to wear.

I love how I can cut Chester's out of the tiniest of remnants. Even though Chester is still so tiny I thought I would go up to a size two, to last him through the winter. Jarvis requested "super, super long pjs". No worries, as I thought he would get two winters out of them.

As of today I finished two pairs of pj sarouels for Jarvis. He had so much fun modelling asked to wear them today. After half an hour of sweating in them, I finally convinced him to take them off.

Chester got a pair of corduroy sarouels, and a pair of deer old man pjs, which I cut from last year's remnants of Justin's. The cords are fine, if not super long on Chester, but the pjs at size two swim on Chester, think these will have to go away until next year.

I think that is why I love the sarouels design so much. Not only for style, and comfort, but for the fact worn 'too big' they look cute, and allow extra wear out of them.

BEATRICE: SHE WHO MAKES HAPPY

It is the little things that I like to take my time with when sewing. French seams where possible, if not a Hong Kong seam with a contrasting bias. Decorative stiches. Definitely hand made. But hand made with love.

I originally bought this fabric because of Jarvis's love of bees. But, now it has gone on to a customer who deserves to have 'Beatrice' in her life.

Beatrice (Italian):  is a name derived from the French name Béatrice, which came from the Latin Beatrix, which means " she who makes happy".

This skirt definitely made me happy while making it. I sure hope it brings Same happiness as well. 

HANDMADE DRESS SWAP: JUDY

Following on from last week's sewing post, is the dress I made for Sarah. I called this dress 'Judy'. (Judy from work helped me pick the fabric and ric rac)

Please Note: This is Sarah's image that I copied from her instagram account. PS I have major hair envy of her gorgeous red hair!

It was an odd mixture of daunting, and exciting, sewing a dress for someone whom you have never met. It was not so much the sewing bit, but picking everything for Sarah from the pattern to the fabric. Having total control over what I was making her, was odd. I did lots of stalking on her blog and Instagram account.

I selected a vintage pattern, I am guessing from the 70s. It seemed basic when I ordered the pattern off Ebay, however inside once I opened the pattern I realised there were no instructions in English.

I fumbled through, but in the end I am happy with how it turned out. So much so I made myself a matching dress in pink floral, to wear while we were in Bali.

MOD BOX SAROUELS FOR BIG KIDS

I could title this post many things...Styled by? Or Styled as my Three year old. Who wore it Better? Being a Big Kid...But basically I wanted to show the fun side of wearing sarouels as an adult. Most know I love my vintage inspired skirts and dresses.

I love getting dressed 'nice', but I also love being comfy. So sarouels are my favourite item to wear. What is not to love about an elastic waist? And a drop crotch? So much comfort.

After hours of drafting and re-drafting this pattern to upscale it from Jarvis size to me size I think I have perfected it.

So I present Mod Box Sarouels for Adults in coral. 

COURTNEY

Meet Courtney, my latest 1950's inspired skirt. She is fun and friendly, a skirt that makes you feel happy.

Oh, but don't get me wrong, Miss Courtney had a level of tough bitch in her.

This waistband/zip that took three attempts, and even now the OCD in me is screaming, "not straight".

Main reason is the stripes/checks pattern of the fabric are not even, so pattern matching was a nightmare. When you lay the fabric flat, the right side of the fabric has the lines running about two centimetres higher than the left. I solved the problem of pattern matching in the skirt by the huge pocket placement. But no where to hide the waistband.

She was super comfy and fun to wear. Even after eating excessive amounts of wantons on Easter Sunday. I love this style of skirt, hides a multitude of sins, while making me feel 'dressed up', when in fact I am dagging it in my bunny t shirt and skirt.  

Customer orders welcome. I have enough fabric left over for two more skirts. Just send me an email: iliska_dreams@hotmail.com

ROBOT SAROUELS AND ROBOT BUNTING

Last week was all about Robots. 

Two separate orders for robot sarouels, one for shorts and one for standard long ones. So I cheated a little, and use a fabric I love for both.

I am yet to work out the art of a perfect flat lay photo, so images do not do these justice. But that fabric is so cute. Shorts and sarouels were a teeny tiny size OO. Smaller than I normally make, but now I have requests for more from a certain daughter for her son. Tamika got excited cause she thought they were for Chester. Sorry Bubby, both for babies yet to be born.

The bunting, is a mixture of robots on one side and bright colours on the other side. Since I was making these up, (they take forever to hand cut and sew) I made double, so I still have one left. It is a double sided, handmade, three meter, eight flag, robot and bright bunting. $25 plus postage and handling.

Okay so does anyone have any hints on how to take a good flat lay photo? 

MOD BOX SAROUELS

I like to use fabrics for things that are not what they are meant for. Jarvis's new sarouels are a perfect example. Thick quilting cotton would not be a first choice for a relaxed pants style. But it works.

Plus colours, I also got this fabric (it is called Mod Box) in grey, but no, Jarvis picked the coral.

Jarvis got the first pair as I am experimenting with different pockets, and do not like to sell them until I have made couple 'practice' ones. Oh, and sad to say, I have a matching pair. Though I will not be rocking the skater boy look with mine. My look is more relaxed daggy Mum.

But I am thrilled to say the pockets have turned out perfectly. Amazing what you can do with a little guess work and basic pattern drafting knowledge.

So I present to you Mod Box Sarouels in coral. Modelled by my gorgeous boy. 

ROBOTS AND POCKETS

I have been sewing what has become a big of unintentional theme, of robots. There is  dinosaur or two thrown in but robots have been under the needle allot.

With the last of this print I made another pair of sarouels. I have been thinking of not selling these and keeping them for Jarvis they are so cute.

But then the other day I got another new batch of robot printed fabric. Super excited to sew those up as well. My kid is going to end up with a huge wardrobe, if I keep making one to sell, and one for him cause I love them so much.

The other thing I have been doing is experimenting with different pockets. What pair of pants is complete without a pocket or two? 

DID I ACHIEVE MY SEWING GOALS FOR 2014

One year down... did I achieve my sewing goals for 2014? I wrote a post at the beginning of this year trying to keep myself accountable. 

* Sew one item a week post it online

* Practice one new sewing skill per month

* Sew one item per month for someone other (more on this later)

*Sew items from my vintage pattern collection (what is the point in having them if I do not use them?)

Number one. I did sew well over 52 items, but not one a week, some weeks none. Other weeks, several items at once. Did I keep up my sewing posting online, no. So I think I go this goal about half way.

Number two. I did practice new techniques including vintage ones. But I do not believe I got one a month.

Number three. Yes I definitely achieved this goal.

Number four. I did this, also added to my vintage pattern stash. New to stop buying patterns. Okay this is not going to happen. I achieved this goal.

Over all not too bad, considering the lack of time I have to sew. Next year I should simply make the goal: make more time to sew every week. 

KNIT THREE PURL THREE. KNIT THE BAD ENERGY AWAY.

Ever since my miscarriage two weeks ago, all creativity has been drained from my body. My sewing space is looking like a dumping zone for fabric, and my 'to do' list is growing.

I read somewhere that if you try a different artistic pursuit it tricks your brain back into being creative. So last night with the help of You Tube, and hints from Greer of Typically Red, I actually cast on, learnt how to do a knit stitch and a purl stitch. Oh, and Greer REALLY knows what she is talking about, she does the most divine knit wear, here is a link to her Etsy shop. A few rows in I must say I am feeling proud. No where near Greer's standard, but it is a start. 

So on this dreary and rainy Monday I am going to ignore the above, and snuggle under a blanket, with a cup of tea and my knitting. 

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

Sarouels are Jarvis's favourite style of pants. He owns several other styles, including jeans, but he just does not like wearing them.

They have so many names; harem pants, MC Hammer Pants, dimije, tshalvar, schalwar, salwar kameez, kaccha, patiala salwar, shintijan, sirwal, sharovary, Turkish trousers, aladdin pants, balloon pants, drop crotch pants, pantaloons, pluderhose, zouave, and pumphose, the list goes on. But for Jarvis they mean comfort and style.

I made these for Jarvis to wear to the Tenneriffe Festival on Saturday, with a matching bow tie. (I forgot to put the tie on him. Also our model was too interested in saying the letters on the Wool Store building and would not show us the back with has a cute pocket detail). Sarouels and matching bow tie available for only $30, plus postage. 

DRESSMAKING FOR BEGINNERS: HOW TO CHOOSE AND BUY FABRIC

Brief guide to fabric:

Fabrics are either woven or knitted, and can be made from animal fibres (wool and silk), plant fibres (cotton and linen) or man-made fibres (nylon). Knitted fabrics are more stretchy than woven ones.

As you can see from one of my stash piles, I love bright cottons.

I won't go into every fabric, but a quick break down is:

Cotton: the most versatile fabric, woven cotton comes in many different weights from light-weight handkerchiefs to heavy canvas. It’s often used for shirts, skirts, trousers, jeans and bags. Fabrics like denim, moleskin and corduroy are generally made from cotton. Range of prices – often fairly cheap.

Cotton jersey: knitted by machine from fine cotton thread, this fabric is what t-shirts are made of. It’s stretchy and comfortable to wear, but not as easy to sew as woven fabric.

Linen: woven linen is easy to sew and comes in a variety of weights. It tends to crease a lot and is often blended with cotton. It’s main use is in making summer clothes. Can be quite expensive.

Silk: shiny, slippery woven fabric often used for luxury underwear, blouses and dresses. Expensive and difficult to sew.

Wool: Can be knitted or woven. Woollen fabrics are often made into suits, coats and posh skirts and trousers. Often fairly expensive and tend to be dry clean.

Polyester and polycotton: synthetic woven fabric, generally light-weight and crease resistant. Polycotton is a blend of polyester and cotton. Often pretty cheap.

Good fabrics for beginners

To start with, it’s a good idea to buy fabric that is easy to sew and not too expensive.

A woven fabric that will not slip or stretch to much when you sew it. This means choosing cotton, linen or a cotton-linen blend. Avoid silk, rayon, shiny polyester and cotton jersey and other knitted fabrics.

Either plain colours or small prints. Avoid stripes, checks and big patterns for the moment as they are more difficult to lay out.

Light- to medium-weight fabrics. Avoid really heavy-weight fabrics like denim at first as they are harder to manipulate. It’s also a good idea to steer clear of bumpy or ridged fabrics like corduroy for your first attempt at sewing.

How to buy fabric

It is easiest to buy/have your sewing pattern first, then shop for fabric. Once you've got your pattern, you know what kinds of fabric you’re looking for and how much fabric to buy. You can also buy any thread, zips, buttons or other notions to match at the same time.

When you are looking at fabric in a shop:

Check that the fabric is one of the ones recommended on the back of your pattern envelope.

Unroll the fabric bolt a little and have a look at how the fabric hangs (called its drape). Do you like the feel of it? Is it soft or stiff? Does this fit with what you are planning to make? Is the fabric scratchy?

Have a look at the label, there should be some information about the fibre content and care instructions. Can you machine wash it or is it dry clean only? If it sounds like it’s too high maintenance, move on.

Visualise your planned project made up in the fabric. Does it look right? Do you like it? Is the fabric in a colour that suits you?

Check the width of the fabric. Fabrics are made in different widths: mainly 150cm and 115cm. Look at your pattern to find out what length of fabric you will need to buy.

The other fabric to look at is furnishing fabric, yes is is a lot heavier, but is great for some clothing and perfect for crafting. The two below are for my next two projects. Owls are for bunting for a customer, roses are for me. I am finally decorating my sewing space.

HOW TO READ AND USE A SEWING PATTERN

A few Saturdays ago, at work, I had to give a demonstration/talk about " How to Choose a Pattern for Sewing." " How to Read and Use a Sewing Pattern". Plus " How to choose and buy fabric". 

Jarvis wearing brown cord sarouels

It was aimed at the true beginner, entry level sewist. Here is the second presentation from that day. 

Selecting a pattern
If you are just beginning to sew for yourself, choose a relatively simple pattern. Something that is simple in style, not too fitted and without fancy details is a good starting point. Lounge pants with elasticized waists, smock style tops, or A-line skirts could be a good choice. Have a look at the pattern photos and/or illustrations and the line drawings that accompany it, checking both the front and back views.

Tips for size selection
You need to measure yourself before you decide what size pattern to buy. Commercial patterns are sized quite differently to ready-to-wear clothes.

Pattern envelope front
The pattern front generally includes an illustration and/or photo of the finished garment, often in a few variations which can all be made from the same pattern.

Pattern envelope back
The back of the pattern envelope usually has a line drawing of the back of the garments. Some patterns will have a written description of the garment. Body measurements and finished garment measurements are usually printed on the back of the pattern envelope, in addition to the amount of fabric needed to make the garment.

Also be aware that most patterns have instructions written on one side in English, however on this side the measurements are normally in inches and yards for American consumers. In Australia we measure and cut in centimetres so you will need to flip over to the French side and get the correct fabric lengths there. This is easy to do, read the English side first and then the French will just be the same instructions.

There will also be a list of suitable fabrics; this is important! Patterns are designed for particular types of fabric weights, drape, weave, thickness, and stretch, so it is essential to choose an appropriate fabric for the pattern in order to maximize your chances of getting a good result. Patterns designed for light to mid-weight woven cottons are a great place to start when you’re beginning to sew. The pattern envelope back also has information about notions; these are the extra things that you’ll need in order to make the garment, like thread, buttons, elastic, zips, trim, etc.

Pattern instruction sheet
Before you get out your scissors and pins, read through the pattern instructions! Most patterns start off with line drawings of the front and back of the garments, in all the views included in the pattern. There is usually an illustration of the pattern pieces, with each piece numbered and identified.

General sewing instructions follow, then a cutting layout.

Choose the layout appropriate for the size you are making, and the width of the fabric that you have chosen. It might be worth highlighting which layout you need to use.

Read through each step of the sewing process. Try to visualize what you’ll be doing. If there are different views included in the same pattern, highlight each step that you are going to follow for the view that you have chosen.

A few Saturdays ago, at work, I had to give a demonstration/talk about " How to Choose a Pattern for Sewing." " How to Read and Use a Sewing Pattern". Plus " How to choose and buy fabric". It was aimed at the true beginner, entry level sewist. Not only did I have to overcome my fear of public speaking, I had to ensure the correct information was given. Here is the second presentation from that day.

Pattern pieces
Pattern pieces are normally printed on tissue paper. Identify and cut out each pattern piece that you need to make the view you have chosen. Use paper scissors, not your good fabric scissors! You can cut these out roughly outside the outer marked line of each pattern piece.

Pattern markings
Grainlines: Fabric is woven from horizontal and vertical threads. The grainlines are marked on the pattern with long double-ended arrows. These need to be aligned with the vertical threads in the fabric. The cutting layout takes the grainlines into account when showing you how to place the pattern pieces.

Sewing Lines and Seam Allowances: The seam allowance is generally included in the pattern piece, so that the marked line is the cutting line. The sewing line isn’t marked, but is usually 5/8” in from the edge of the pattern piece. The cutting line is printed differently for each size.

Notches: These are the little triangle shapes on the pattern piece. They should be cut outwards when you come to them. They are important points where pattern pieces will be matched together.

Dots and Squares: Mark dots and squares onto the fabric with thread tacks or with a fabric marking pen or pencil or chalk (choose something that isn’t permanent). Once again, these are important points where pieces will be matched together or where stitching will need to start or finish.

Other Markings: Transfer the outlines of darts, pleats or other markings to the fabric pieces with thread tacks or with a fabric marking pen or pencil or chalk (once again, choose something that isn’t permanent).

FIRST PHOTOSHOOT FOR ILISKA DREAMS SLEEPWARE

Yesterday the first photoshoot for my Iliska Dreams Sleepware range, coincided with my wish for a photoshoot of myself and my babies for Mothers Day.

My website will be coming soon, but for now I can give a sneak peak here on my blog and up on my Facebook page.

The stunning photos were styled, photographed, and edited by Justin Ma Photography.

17/52 2014

Bed making is one of Jarvis's favourite household chores. The sheets on the line are just for playing in. The unmade bed becomes a fort to hide. Then making the bed is the best game of all. Jarvis lays on the sheets and Justin and I flip him in the air. Our dare devil son loves it.

This is Jarvis and I in our Iliska Dreams Pyjamas, playing hide.

Last year Jodi inspired me to pick up my camera and turn the focus inward. This year I have opted to continue with the series as I feel there are still so many family stories to be told through photos. So I will continue to Link up with Jodi  (the artist formerly known as Che & Fidel now Practising Simplicity) for the 52 Project.

I TOLD YOU HOMEBOY YOU CAN'T TOUCH THIS, LESSONS LEARNT FROM HAMMER PANTS

Pjs teaching me thing? Who would have thought purple chevron flannelette could show me things?

With Autumn weather cooling down the nights I knew it was time to make everyone their new set of winter pyjamas. Spotlight had flannelette on sale, so Tamika came over, shoved my sore knee into the car, and we drove the one minute drive.

As soon as we got there, Jarvis went straight to the florals, sighing and saying "zizzie!". His word for most things pretty, flowers, butterflies and so on. Then he went to the chevrons. When Tamika and I asked what colour he wanted he keep pointing at the purple. Teak and I asked if he would prefer the yellow or blue. But no, he shock his head saying no and kept pointing at the purple.

As we were standing in line, both Tamika and I questioned ourselves. Why did we not let him have his first colour choice? Why did we feel the need to point to the so called "boy colours"?

As an informed person, I thought I questioned cultural practices. I didn't think I blindly followed cultural habits like gender-colour associations. I normally question how society's gender associations, yet ignorantly I questioned Jarvis's choice of purple.

I get annoyed when people question Jarvis's love of nail polish, yet I was being just as ignorant.

Instead of sewing Jarvis 'standard' PJ bottoms, I thought his choice deserved something more. So he got MC hammer pj pants.

Oh, and look at them next to last year's pjs, look how tall Jarvis has gotten!

MARCH MENDING

At the beginning of the year I set myself sewing goals. The post on this can be found here. For the first two months I achieved them with ease. However, for March I have deviated. Instead of following the list, I have found contentment in mending, in finishing all of those unfinished projects. Okay, I have not finished them all, yet I am finding a sense of growing happiness at the lessening of the "to do pile" and the growing of the 'done' pile.

Red Gingham Dress, is still there waiting to be finished, you can see her under a stash of fabrics that I am turning into baby wraps.

I have still managed to sew at least one, or more item per week, yet I have not posted about it. I have not practiced or learnt a new skill this month. Or sewn using my vintage patterns, yet I have been making for someone other. This last item is the thing that is bringing such happiness. That act of giving for no reason other than I want to. 

My boxer shorts are traveling around the globe for other people to wear. 

RED GINGHAM DRESS MISS 1970S BODICE

With me working pretty much every day last week, I had no time for blogging, and definitely no time for sewing. However, Saturday after I had spent the day paving, I snuck in some me time Saturday night once Jarvis was in bed. (Justin photographed Soundwave all day/night Saturday. So I had the house to myself.)

 Front

Last week I cut the dress out. First off I sat down and read the instructions... hmm not much help/instructions, so it all was a bit of a guess. Miss 1970 proved to be a tricky woman, not sure if it was over-tiredness or she is just a difficult woman? My biggest challenge was, once I  basted the pieces together to check the fit, I realised then a 1970s size 12 was massive on me and I needed to take at least five centimetres off both sides. Which then bought the challenge of re-working the darts.

Pinning on yourself is no easy task, especially after I had spent the day paving and my back and arms muscles felt like jelly. But now, it seems to fit really well. I am super excited for the next step of attaching the skirt and skirt underlay!

Two more naps and I may get this dress done. I just have to decide if I am going to use bias binding on the hem as well?

 Pieces before the five centimeters off both sides

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