HOW TO READ AND USE A SEWING PATTERN

A few Saturdays ago, at work, I had to give a demonstration/talk about " How to Choose a Pattern for Sewing." " How to Read and Use a Sewing Pattern". Plus " How to choose and buy fabric". 

Jarvis wearing brown cord sarouels

It was aimed at the true beginner, entry level sewist. Here is the second presentation from that day. 

Selecting a pattern
If you are just beginning to sew for yourself, choose a relatively simple pattern. Something that is simple in style, not too fitted and without fancy details is a good starting point. Lounge pants with elasticized waists, smock style tops, or A-line skirts could be a good choice. Have a look at the pattern photos and/or illustrations and the line drawings that accompany it, checking both the front and back views.

Tips for size selection
You need to measure yourself before you decide what size pattern to buy. Commercial patterns are sized quite differently to ready-to-wear clothes.

Pattern envelope front
The pattern front generally includes an illustration and/or photo of the finished garment, often in a few variations which can all be made from the same pattern.

Pattern envelope back
The back of the pattern envelope usually has a line drawing of the back of the garments. Some patterns will have a written description of the garment. Body measurements and finished garment measurements are usually printed on the back of the pattern envelope, in addition to the amount of fabric needed to make the garment.

Also be aware that most patterns have instructions written on one side in English, however on this side the measurements are normally in inches and yards for American consumers. In Australia we measure and cut in centimetres so you will need to flip over to the French side and get the correct fabric lengths there. This is easy to do, read the English side first and then the French will just be the same instructions.

There will also be a list of suitable fabrics; this is important! Patterns are designed for particular types of fabric weights, drape, weave, thickness, and stretch, so it is essential to choose an appropriate fabric for the pattern in order to maximize your chances of getting a good result. Patterns designed for light to mid-weight woven cottons are a great place to start when you’re beginning to sew. The pattern envelope back also has information about notions; these are the extra things that you’ll need in order to make the garment, like thread, buttons, elastic, zips, trim, etc.

Pattern instruction sheet
Before you get out your scissors and pins, read through the pattern instructions! Most patterns start off with line drawings of the front and back of the garments, in all the views included in the pattern. There is usually an illustration of the pattern pieces, with each piece numbered and identified.

General sewing instructions follow, then a cutting layout.

Choose the layout appropriate for the size you are making, and the width of the fabric that you have chosen. It might be worth highlighting which layout you need to use.

Read through each step of the sewing process. Try to visualize what you’ll be doing. If there are different views included in the same pattern, highlight each step that you are going to follow for the view that you have chosen.

A few Saturdays ago, at work, I had to give a demonstration/talk about " How to Choose a Pattern for Sewing." " How to Read and Use a Sewing Pattern". Plus " How to choose and buy fabric". It was aimed at the true beginner, entry level sewist. Not only did I have to overcome my fear of public speaking, I had to ensure the correct information was given. Here is the second presentation from that day.

Pattern pieces
Pattern pieces are normally printed on tissue paper. Identify and cut out each pattern piece that you need to make the view you have chosen. Use paper scissors, not your good fabric scissors! You can cut these out roughly outside the outer marked line of each pattern piece.

Pattern markings
Grainlines: Fabric is woven from horizontal and vertical threads. The grainlines are marked on the pattern with long double-ended arrows. These need to be aligned with the vertical threads in the fabric. The cutting layout takes the grainlines into account when showing you how to place the pattern pieces.

Sewing Lines and Seam Allowances: The seam allowance is generally included in the pattern piece, so that the marked line is the cutting line. The sewing line isn’t marked, but is usually 5/8” in from the edge of the pattern piece. The cutting line is printed differently for each size.

Notches: These are the little triangle shapes on the pattern piece. They should be cut outwards when you come to them. They are important points where pattern pieces will be matched together.

Dots and Squares: Mark dots and squares onto the fabric with thread tacks or with a fabric marking pen or pencil or chalk (choose something that isn’t permanent). Once again, these are important points where pieces will be matched together or where stitching will need to start or finish.

Other Markings: Transfer the outlines of darts, pleats or other markings to the fabric pieces with thread tacks or with a fabric marking pen or pencil or chalk (once again, choose something that isn’t permanent).

WHAT SIZE AM I?

What size are you? I have no idea what size I am! The other day I went shopping for the first time in three years, I needed a pair of black work pants. Even the shops did not know what size I am. I am anywhere from a size 6 through to a 12. In vintage clothing I can often be anywhere from a size 12 through to a 16.

I am sure any other female will be able to tell me that the sizing policy is inconsistent. This is due to all sorts of reasons; from some stores choosing to cut more generously- or tailor their clothes for curvier women- to the rise of vanity sizing, where clothes are labelled as small to give the customer a false sense of thinness. Or cheap clothing stores cutting their garments smaller. 

There has never really been a standard for women’s sizes, but years ago pattern sizes and ready-to-wear sizes were more or less the same. But over the past 30 years or so the sizes we see in stores have changed quite a bit. In general we are taller and fatter than previous generations, however, we wear smaller sizes!

As the sizing changed over time it would have been an epic challenge for pattern companies to change the sizes of sewing patterns to keep up, since the entire catalogue of available sizes would have had to be redone. As some sewing patterns stay in print for years. So now sewing pattern sizes don’t match up with the size labels in our closet, and this adds even more confusion.

I have spent the last two days attempting to draft patterns. I was going to make a small, medium and a large for customers who do not wish to have a custom fit, however exactly what is a small, medium and large? Do I make my sizes according to sewing standards? High End fashion standards? Or cheaper clothing label standards?

My new sewing space. I used my Grandmother's screen to divide the room.

Jarvis will have a space next to me 

My newest dump find, I was going to paint it and upcycle. But now it is in the space I think I may just leave it as is. 

PAJAMAS AT THE FOTT HOUSE

Pyjamas. Pajamas. PJs. Jammies.  There is nothing like comfortable pyjamas.

A loose-fitting garment consisting of trousers and a shirt or top, worn for sleeping or lounging. Often used in the plural.

We had dinner last night at my little sister’s house for my big sister’s birthday. Our matching pajamas were worn. I bought the fabric to make myself a pair, and rather than waste the left over fabric, Jarvis scored himself, yet another pair of PJs. This time I put elastic around the ankles of his, that way I could make them extra long to allow for growth, but to stop him tripping over the hem. I also like how they look a little like puffy clown pants. 

It is the first time I have ever drafted a pants pattern. For Jarvis I use a pattern I had on hand. However, for mine, I got out the pencils and paper and created my own pattern. For the next pair I make, I will do a few minor adjustments to the pattern. But over all, I am happy with the fit.

You can see some of my sister’s gorgeous house in these images. Which Tamika and I have named the FOTT House. Also I am super happy that Jarvis and I are in photos together. It is such a rare thing, even if I am embarrassing him by matching him! Yeah I know how daggy.

Now I am about to make Tamika and Jarvis a matching set!! Hmm wonder if I can convince Tamika to do a matching photoshoot with Jarvis?

Please note that that above images were not taken by me, they were taken by Jam Photographics